February/March 2007

“Beer alchemy is science.”
- Evil

STOUTS & porters

It was a Wednesday night in the city of Buffalo. It was cold, it was dreary, and most importantly there was a Sabres game on. I knew I was going to have to do something special to get our tasters out of their houses. What could I do? Luckily, I didn’t have to do anything. Thanks to the generosity of many breweries, we had a sampling of 16 different porters and stouts to tempt our panel tasters’ palates. Common characteristics of stouts and porters include: dark color; chocolate, coffee and smoke aromas and flavors; roasty aroma and taste; and sweet or dry (or both at the same time!).

The Place:
Mr. Goodbar – Buffalo, NY

The Characters:
The Core Four – Big Evil, Vinny, The Magistrate, and Hop Jack

The Novices:
Jordan, (second tasting),
Gareth (Medical student, beer enthusiast),
Marvin (Service Industry professional),
Jen (Chemistry teacher, usually drinks vodka-teas
and was attending in the name of science),
and the visiting pro NY Beer Governor Steve Hodos.

The Beers:

City Brewery Winter Porter
925 South 3rd St., La Crosse, Wisconsin 54601
608-785-4200

Avg Rating: 6

Our panel felt this was a good starter porter. It was not too light, sweet, flavorful, nor heavy. The usual flavors and characteristics were all present with out creating too much complexity. Jen liked it, and she doesn’t usually care for dark beers (She was in for a long night!). Steve said he’d keep it in his beer fridge.


Otter Creek Stovepipe Porter
793 Exchange Street, Middlebury, Vermont 05753
800-473-0727,
info@ottercreekbrewing.com

Avg Rating: 5.5

This was also a relatively light porter. Marvin felt it had a “chocolaty bite” and the panel agreed that the finish was a little harsh. Evil thought it tasted more like “instant coffee”.


Southern Tier Porter
2051A Stoneman Circle, Lakewood, New York 14750
716-763-5479

Avg Rating: 5.3

Two words stood out in the descriptions of this porter: “dry” and “coffee.” Coffee flavors were present throughout the beer – strong in the nose as well as in the taste. There was some more bitterness than in the two previous, which was both appreciated and not by the panel. Gareth confessed he liked a bit more bitterness in his beers.


Great Divide Porter
2201 Arapahoe Street, Denver, Colorado 80205
303-296-9460

Avg Rating: 4.5

The panel did not like this beer as much. Vinny tasted some vegetable flavors, the Magistrate thought it was slightly oxidized and Steve said he detected faint smells of “burnt plastic.” The Novices felt the beer was
a lot like dark chocolate and rated it slightly higher than the Core Four.


Anderson Valley Porter
P.O. Box 505 - 17700 Hwy 253, Boonville, California 95415-0505
707-895-BEER or 800-207-BEER

Avg Rating: 4.9

Evil called this one a “honey porter,” but the rest of the panel didn’t feel it was super sweet. Hop Jack claimed the “complexity is evident” and liked the lingering finish. Gareth and the Magistrate both detected some vegetable in the flavors. Marvin thought it tasted “OK, but the flavor didn’t go anywhere.”


Three Floyds Alpha Klaus
9750 Indiana Parkway, Munster, Indiana 46321
219-922-3565, alphaking1@msn.com

Avg Rating: 8.2

“Kids, school is in session,” Evil declared. He felt this is exactly what a porter should taste like. Steve agreed – “A classic example,” – and pointed out its noticeable alcohol. The nose had a great deal of hop flavor, and Jordan said it was a good way to learn how to point them out. Marvin summed it up pretty well “It has a very hoppy flavor laced with malt. ”

 

Wolavers Organic Oatmeal Stout
793 Exchange Street, Middlebury, Vermont 05753
800-473-0727,
info@ottercreekbrewing.com

Avg Rating: 5.6

Marvin said this had an “early morning, wake up smell,” and that “the only thing missing here are raisins.” Jen thought the flavor was “disappointing”. While Jordan appreciated being able to pick out many of its different flavors, it wasn’t a beer he would buy. However, Big Evil thought this was Starbucks-able – that they should start a franchise over it and “enslave the masses.” In other words, he thought it was pretty good.

 

New Glarus Coffee Stout
Cty Trk W & Hwy. 69, New Glarus, Wisconsin 53574
(608)527-5850

Avg Rating: 5.5

Despite the promise of being a coffee stout, most of the panel did not feel there was much coffee flavor in the beer. Jordan tasted a lot of coffee, but later determined it may have been “the power of suggestion.” “Hoppy Stout make me happy,” Big Evil said joyfully. Steve said he “did not like it.”

 

Lost Coast 8 Ball Stout
617 Fourth Street, Eureka, California 95501
707-445-4480

Avg Rating 5.4

Steve and Jen tasted what Jen called “carbonated” and Steve called “prickly.” Hop Jack thought it was very drinkable, but Big Evil claimed it was “strictly for tourists.” Marvin was “indifferent” about it. Jordan thought it tasted like “smokey, chocolaty tea.”

 

Anderson Valley Oatmeal Stout
P.O. Box 505 - 17700 Hwy 253, Boonville, California 95415-0505
707-895-BEER or 800-207-BEER

Avg Rating 7.1

There was more oatmeal present in this stout than the other. It made for a smoother taste and feel. A lot of the novices detected the creamy quality of the beer right away. The Magistrate said it was very drinkable and smooth, and Steve said it was a great example: “No Faults!”

 

Three Floyds Black Sun Stout
9750 Indiana Parkway, Munster, Indiana 46321
219-922-3565, alphaking1@msn.com

Avg Rating 7.2

There is a reason they call this beer Black Sun – it is totally opaque, can’t see through it at all. “Double rich” coffee flavors in the nose for Vinny – “Big Beer, no doubt!” Evil liked it - “Dead, Dark and Delicious,”- and the Magistrate said he’d have more than one. Hop Jack thought it would benefit from some aging.

 

Great Divide Yeti Imperial Stout
2201 Arapahoe Street, Denver, Colorado 80205
303-296-9460

Avg Rating 6.6

Vinny: “Huuuaaahh! Nose tells all!” Jordan smelled a lot of alcohol is this beer, “like a cordial or something. Very warm flavor,” a side effect of a higher alcohol content. Marvin said it was too sweet for him, and that he detected some cranberry. Jen agreed this was more like a liqueur and the flavor was strong and syrupy. Gareth said the “warm chocolate stays with you well after the finish.”

 

Southern Tier Jah-va Stout
2051A Stoneman Circle, Lakewood, New York 14750
716-763-5479

Avg Rating 5.3

Steve called this one “a sipper,” and the panel agreed. With intense flavors of roast and coffee, this is not a session beer. It possesses a thicker, heavier body and Vinny said it was like “doses of sugar and vodka in espresso!” A good example of the style, but definitely meant to be shared.

 

Great Divide Oak Aged Yeti Imperial Stout
2201 Arapahoe Street, Denver, Colorado 80205
303-296-9460

Avg Rating 5.3

The core four felt there was a little too much oak. “I love oak in beer, but I can’t taste the beer,” observed the Magistrate, verbalizing the general consensus. “Too much?” said Vinny. “Possibly, but try it.”

 

Three Floyds Dark Lord Imperial Stout
9750 Indiana Parkway, Munster, Indiana 46321
219-922-3565, alphaking1@msn.com

Avg Rating 6.9

The Core Four recognized the beers rich complexity “Complex! Wow!” said the Magistrate. While the style is not Steve’s favorite, he felt the beer was “impressive; smooth for such an intense beer. It has big flavors of roast coffee and chocolate, and Evil and Vinny tasted some raisin/prune qualities in it as well. It was also syrupy and warm. “Too much for a novice,” declared Jordan, and the rest of the Novices agreed.

 

--- by Kelly Kroese, Beer Beacon columnist

Reviews Listed by Brewery
Archives
Taster Profiles

Comments on Beer Beacon should be directed to beerbeacon@brewingnews.com.

Copyright 2005, Great Lakes Brewing News